“It’s free; it’s sensual; it’s satin; it’s a mass of textures. I feel this is what the brand is becoming—its DNA,” said Jonathan Anderson in his show debrief at Loewe. “I had the idea about people walking through a gallery space who are individuals but connected by a common thread.”
What is that common thread? Will bohemian, relaxed, grown-up, and classy do? It’s hard to put a finger on it while avoiding fashion clichés, but here it is: A sense of cultivated elegance is coming from fashion’s new guard—and Anderson is in the vanguard of it. Looking down the long barrel of history, it’s a movement that is stepping in to put the values of craft and individual choice back into that much-debased term, luxury. A psychological replacement for the role minimalism used to play.