After Honor Swinton Byrne’s (daughter of Tilda) acclaimed screen debut, the second most-talked about thing in Sundance hit The Souvenir is its evocative recreation of 1980s Britain, from the music – think The Specials and The Psychedelic Furs – to the clothes. Also causing a stir at the other end of the cultural spectrum is Wonder Woman 1984, which will see Gal Gadot reprise her role as Diana Prince against the backdrop of the Cold War. As fans wait to see how early ‘80s style will play out in the DC Universe (a much-discussed official posteris the only hint thus far), Vogue takes a look back at some of cinema’s most memorable homages to fashion in the decade of excess…
Heathers
Long before Cher Horowitz was cutting a swathe through crowds of slack-jawed admirers in her yellow tartan two-piece, Winona Ryder and the original high school mean girls were pioneering plaid blazers and pleats in 1989’s Heathers. With their voluminous hairstyles, crop tops and penchant for a power accessory (shoulder pads, brooches, and even – in the case of Ryder’s character Veronica Sawyer – a monocle), the Heathers’ outfits remain as instantly recognisable as their catchphrases. Exactly what is your damage, anyway?
American Psycho
Patrick Bateman’s immaculately tailored Cerruti suits, perfectly pressed shirts and red braces comprise the dream wardrobe of the thrusting Wall Street yuppie in the decade of mobile phones, Madonna and rampant materialism, and the women of American Psycho serve up some key ‘80s style signifiers, too. As the serial killer’s unwitting fiancée, Evelyn, Reese Witherspoon is every inch the Upper East Side ice queen, from her power blazers and bling to her gravity-defying lacquered quiff. Chloë Sevigny, meanwhile, as the trader’s smitten secretary Jean, trades her prim work attire of twinset and pearls for strapless body-con and heels for an exceptionally ill-advised date with her office crush.
Call Me By Your Name
The lush visuals in Luca Guadagnino’s coming of age tale are as dreamy as the love story at its heart, and the subtle sartorial nods to the early ‘80s (courtesy of costume designer Giulia Piersanti, who moonlights as a knitwear designer at Celine) only add to the effect. Would Elio – and audiences – be quite as transfixed by the handsome Oliver were it not for his billowy shirts, ever-so-slightly short shorts and high-tops? Probably. But the movie wouldn’t look nearly so stylish.
Scarface
Tony Montana’s wife was hitting the floor of the Babylon some 35 years ago now, but Elvira Hancock’s wardrobe looks incredibly relevant for right now. Her slinky slip dresses – typically teamed with a statement earring – are oh so summer 2019, and her belted white skirt suit is giving us Bella-Hadid-in-Cannes vibes.
The Wolf Of Wall Street
Margot Robbie exploded into the public consciousness in 2014 with her performance as Naomi Lapaglia – later Belfort – in The Wolf Of Wall Street, with a little help from a wardrobe of dagger sharp stilettos, second-skin dresses and sheer black stockings. The movie opens at the tail end of the 1980s (before Jordan Belfort commenced his debauched rampage through the decade that followed), and Robbie, who wore carefully sourced designer vintage throughout, makes her memorable entrance in a blue keyhole cocktail dress coupled with a chain-handle bag, chunky gold hoops, and a fuschia mani.
One Day
By the end of the movie adaptation of David Nicholls’ bestselling book, mousy Emma Morley, played by Anne Hathaway, has blossomed into a chic writer with an apartment in Paris and a nice line in halterneck dresses. But in the opening scenes at Edinburgh University her outfit is made up of the staple items in every student’s wardrobe circa 1988: floral dress, oversized denim jacket adorned with CND badges, and (what else?) a pair of Dr Marten boots.
The Iron Lady
Say what you will about Margaret Thatcher, she knew her way around a signature look – as Meryl Streep’s uncanny portrayal in 2012’s The Iron Ladyreminds us. Britain’s first female PM is as inseparable in our minds from her Aquascutum skirt suit, boxy handbag and pearls as Madonna from her Jean Paul Gaultier corset, or Amy Winehouse from her beehive and ballet pumps. She was also a founder member of the not-so-subtle school of fashion signalling now represented by Melania Trump – see her almost entirely Tory blue palette for details.
