The Setchu Fall 2025 Menswear Collection is a carefully curated blend of sophisticated aesthetics and modern design elements. Drawing inspiration from traditional menswear silhouettes, the collection features tailored suits, crisp shirts, and structured outerwear pieces that exude elegance and refinement.
Read Also: Fashion Spotlight: Laura Ikeji Slays In Gorgeous Dress
Among the standouts was a square-cut shirt fashioned from opulent crimson-and-gold silk brocade, woven in the traditional obi-kimono style.
The intricate pattern drew inspiration from Genji Monogatari—an 11th-century Japanese literary classic by a courtly noblewoman, detailing the romantic exploits of Prince Genji.
“It’s essentially the first rom-com ever written—a kind of Sex and the City or Emily in Paris of its time,” Kuwata remarked. Adding a contemporary twist, he infused the silk jacquard motifs with a homoerotic narrative, imagining Prince Genji falling passionately for a fisherman. Another bold nod to Japanese erotica appeared in the form of a dramatic black lace evening gown with a sweeping train and matching capelet. On closer examination, the intricate lacework revealed octopus heads subtly distorted into explicit phallic shapes. “I’m officially the first designer to feature 300 dicks—and counting—in a fashion show!” Kuwata quipped with a grin.
The Setchu experience continued post-show on the library’s first floor, where attendees wandered through grand vaulted salons filled with antique glass displays.
These cases showcased the brand’s handcrafted creations against backdrops resembling tatami textures. “I wanted to share a glimpse of the inspiration within my mind that shapes every Setchu piece,” Kuwata explained. The exhibit featured foldable shoes, origami-inspired totes, deconstructed knitwear, bracelets made from fishing tools, and even miniature accessories.
See collection as compiled by Vogue
