No designer is exempt from the pressures of balancing tradition with innovation. At Etro, Marco De Vincenzo is working to honor the brand’s heritage while infusing it with his contemporary vision. “It’s both thrilling and challenging,” he admitted, highlighting how the tension between these elements has broadened his perspective and strengthened his adaptability, enabling him to uphold creative integrity within the constraints he faces.
Known for his love of bold, graphic maximalism rather than the bohemian fluidity Etro is famed for, De Vincenzo has faced challenges reconciling his style with the brand’s legacy. However, he seems to have found his rhythm. His pre-fall collection offered a fresh interpretation of Etro’s signature aesthetic, featuring streamlined, body-hugging silhouettes crafted from stretchy silk jersey. These designs introduced a youthful, sexy edge, with sparse floral prints lending a lighter, more refined touch compared to the brand’s traditionally lavish patterns. The same sculpted hourglass shapes appeared in everyday staples like coats, blazers, and minidresses, with waistlines emphasized by handmade leather lace-up details, as seen in a sleek cashmere coat in a subtle caramel paisley.
One standout piece reflecting De Vincenzo’s artistic yet pragmatic sensibility was a camel masculine coat, enhanced with chunky knitted sides and sleeves in a vibrant abstract pattern. He described it as a “cut-and-paste specimen, a hybrid between a jumper and a city coat,” embodying his approach of blending reductionist minimalism with the brand’s trademark wanderlust. “I’m trying to simplify and bring a minimalist spirit to Etro,” he explained.
A handful of men’s looks accompanied the women’s collection, catering to the preferences of Etro’s traditional clientele. De Vincenzo’s tenure at the brand isn’t about radical transformation but rather a nuanced evolution that respects its legacy while introducing his modern perspective.
See collection as compiled Vogue
